Portugal in Moving Pictures

Indulge, Love

Is it too late for a #tbt? It’s Thursday, and it’s not so far back, after all… Here is a taste of our delicious Portugal trip. A sweet little movie that captures just the cherry of what it’s like to travel with a lovely lady like Allia (@buttonsmcleod  if you’d like to catch more from her on Insta). Feel free to check out the pictures from each day of our journey here (Day 1-15 of our Portugal journey!). It really is a place that you have to see to believe. Around every turn there was something breathtaking, adorable or hilarious.

I hope that voce gosta muito this little vid. I present: a peek into Portugal, from the perspective of two lesbians in love. Tchau and beijos!

 

Day 5 in Portugal – Douro Valley and the Port by Moonlight 

Indulge


Our journey to the Douro valley started out simply enough. Until we came to a dead stop on a vertiginous cliff side road, just wide enough for two cars to scrape past each other, because there was road work going on. 

After a terrifying six point turn, when the road crew told us there was no way around and our GPS provided no alternate routes, … This is us following two of the men who hopped into their car and led us to where we needed to be. That’s just how it is here… Human kindness. 

We arrived for a tour and four course lunch at Quinta Nova winery and the rest of the day was beautiful and breathtaking. 


We spent the whole day in Douro Valley and then night time was all about Porto and the waterfront. And pizza. And the most flavourful caprese salad. 


Best travel tip so far: pack enough shoes that you can change it up and give your feet a break from wearing one pair too long. 

See you tomorrow!

Day 4 in Portugal – from rooftops in Lisbon to Wildfire And a city of light and colour in Porto 

Indulge

It’s so warm here that two outfits per day seems reasonable. We lounges by the pool on the roof before packing to take a car to Porto. 



Wildfires are sweeping Portugal and our drive to Porto was smokey.  We didn’t know, at first, what was happening- not being tuned into current events in Portuguese on the radio. The brush fire I being   Fought by firefighters from all over the country. 

We stopped at a roadside place called Ars (I know) and managed to accidentally select a 17 Euro meal (of suckling pig); who spends a total of 30 Euro on a gas stop lunch. Lol.

 We are safe and sound; the city looks beautiful and dreamy. We are staying in Maia, just outside Porto. 


Lisbon, day 1

Indulge

Fado music. Night to day, out of order, but still a pretty good capture of day one: we ended with late night Fado music at Esquina de Alfama. So animated and authentic; it was recommended by our host at the final apartment we will stay at when we return; we enjoyed a hot pot of fish and shrimp. Mode of travel: we walked the streets, taking in the sights, over 6 k in total – through bairro alto and Alfama. 

To start we enjoyed tuna salgadinhos and pasteis de natal. 

Our hotel. 

A taverna set in a building from the 1700s. Tried some white port. 

What if God was one of us?

Late lunch at Zero Zero, after the indoor market. 

Where it all began: This is going to be a daily ritual. 

New York City, Day 3 (the long-time-coming update)

Indulge

Our third day started with a craving for New York bagels. We went to a mom and pop shop. Heaven in a carb. Then lattes and walking around in the brisk air. It was unseasonably mild; perfect for strolling outdoors. MOMA was our destination.

I loved seeing Frida Khalo and the accompanying mirror where you could be her companion piece. Basquiat, Klimt, Picasso, and all my faves from art class. It was great spending the day revisiting pieces I’d only ever seen in textbooks, or haven’t seen since high school! Fur tea cups, absurdism, modern iconography, and historical digital technology (like a walkman or discman), gay pride flags as modern symbols…

I loved the video installments, the live electric violin in the sound space and the up-close and personal views of my favourite artists. Klimt always makes my heart rev.


We had a yummy lunch of soup and cheeses (and wine) at the terrace. Al had eleven compliments on her hair and we got recognized from last night’s red carpet. Only in New York?!…  I also loved that in NYC (of all places) on several occasions total strangers called us ‘stylish’. ‘We’re from Canada,’ we giggled. IMG_1929

Relics of times gone by. If you consider how few young students know why the ‘save’ icon is shaped as it is, the reason for these exhibits is sad, but charming. We are moving so quickly that we don’t remember where we’ve been.

The ‘Department of Health’ photo (below) of an overflowing cubicle. What a perfect visual paradox. And Jackson Pollock.

After the museum we met up with one of my most favourite people, a Canadian expat who is now a New York City girl. We went for a night on the town, a show at the comedy cellar, a ride on the subway, drinks at a few fancy bars and hotels.

What could be better than a bite of the Big Apple with the most wonderful company?

Just one more day to go 🙂

 

StyleSaVie Does NYC – day two

Foodie, Indulge

   

We got up on our first full day, ready to walk my wife to the HBO head offices. We enjoyed a nice breakfast at the hotel and greeted a day of pleasantly, unexpectedly mild weather. A floral print maxi dress over leggings and a slip, with a brimmed hat was a great choice, easy and comfortable for a day of walking.

Out on the street we soaked in the lights, iconic buildings and streets full of people. The hustle and bustle was pretty amazing. Toronto is similar, but the famous places and faces in NYC made me feel like I had ‘arrived’ and even a brisk morning walk felt like an event.
     

Now that I know what I’m looking for, I have started to see ads for Vinyl  everywhere!

 

I loved seeing how life was just teeming amongst all that concrete and metal.

  

Victoria’s Secret … on three levels… was a sight to behold. I asked one of the staff, “so, is there a real ‘Victoria’?”

“Victoria? Victoria, who?”

“This is Victoria’s Secret. Is there an actual ‘Victoria’?”

She seemed very confused. However, I was enamored of some bralettes, found a $168 dress marked down to $9.99, and spent the day shopping – while Al was doing interviews. Shopping is a close second to interviewing Juno Temple and all the other folks doing press for the new series.
  
  

Fancy-pants changerooms! Next, I headed to what was possibly the most beautiful H&M I have ever seen. The multi-level store was setting the bar high. Poor Toronto locations!

   

I picked up some amazing mock neck printed blouses, with ballerinas and 70s prints, in navy and mustard. Last on the list for today was Macy’s, which we don’t have in Canada.

I checked out the various departments and was thrilled to find a big ‘additional 40% off sale items’ in the BCBG area. Also… the changerooms. There were lighting options for ‘office,’ ‘daylight’ and ‘evening’. Wow. Such a great idea. I played here for a little while, and ended up buying a high-waist black tulle skirt with gold swiss-dots, and a long blue evening dress (’cause every year I go to prom and… there are always weddings to attend).

I have always loved playing dress-up! Changing the filter lights on the changeroom mirror:

    

  

This dress will make me very happy come summer. With a few alterations, I’ll be set.
 The magic maker:

  

After an exhausting morning of shopping, I headed back to the hotel … to get ready for a late lunch and some journal writing.

  Allia joined me back at the hotel and we went to Costas for Arepas! Yumm, yummy, yumm. We wanted a quick bite before heading over to the red carpet for the Vinyl Premiere.

   

         Strolling before the red carpet. My mom’s vintage coat was an impossibly perfect choice.

   

Allia getting ready for the carpet: Looking fly, as ever.
      

Behind the velvet rope.

 

Enter the stars: Juno Temple, bubbly, sweet and more than a little sexy. She looked very seventies in a silver plunging gown and tiara. I’m definitely biased, but it’s safe to say that my wife is an amazing interviewer; her questions are real, content-driven and original. Watching people respond to her is such a treat. Our neighbours on the carpet were from Australia and often pushed Allia to reel in big names who might otherwise not have stopped in our area. It helps that she is beautiful and has a big beaming smile (and cool hair).

  

I was very psyched to see some up-and-comers, like Emily Tremaine, and some familiar faces, like Pitch Perfect’s bitch-supreme of ‘Das Sound Machine: Birgitte Hjort Sørensen

     

Mini-Quaid, Sopranos and Glee alumnus, and faces you just know are famous.

  

  

And some who need no introduction: Glenn Close. Close up.

  

This actor is so vibrant and I can’t wait to watch more of the series to catch more of her! (Susan Heyward)

What it really looks like back there:
  

The cherry on my night’s sundae: Olivia Wilde. Yes, she is that beautiful. And her character in the show is strong, complex and provocative.

And of course no show starring Mick Jagger’s son, naked in the first episode, would be complete without the proud papa, in this case A Rolling Stone: Mick himself.   
To be honest, I was less awestruck by him than I was by Olivia Wilde. At one point the camera shooting B-role got my ‘omgeeeeeee’ face as I watched Olivia Wilde… just being Olivia Wilde. She was mesmerizing. And watching Allia interview her can only be described as hotness-ping-pong.

All of this, of course, required a great dinner to end things off. So we went to the Mermaid and Oyster Bar.
      

We were treated to free wine and beer, just for having a minor wait. Totally our pleasure. We shared oysters, naturally, and their lobster trio, which was delicious! Because they don’t offer dessert, but ‘feel mean’ for not offering dessert – every patron gets to finish their meal with homemade chocolate pudding. Fine by me!
  
  

I was strangely charmed by their fortune telling fish. Depending on how they curl in your hands, they give clues to your state of mind and heart… “Passionate” seems about right.

We ended the evening with a quick tour of the queer scene: Henrietta Hudson had a big dance party and Boots and Saddles was drag, drag and stand-up.

And for good measure: take just one more look. Seriously.

  What better way to end it than with this? And our trip was only just getting started. ‘Til then, sweet winter dreams and stay smiling.

StyleSaVie Does NYC – day one

Foodie, Indulge

I was so lucky. Timing was perfect. My wife got sent on business (to go and interview the cast of Vinyl, the new HBO series) and I was able to make a weekend of it. This never happens. But, for one time only, we had a weekend away together and it was super inexpensive. Stay tuned for the four days of whirlwind fun.

Day One

At Toronto Pearson Airport, YYZ, we were ready to head out. Hats are my travel buddy. Even though they are a bit of a pain to carry on the plane itself, they save whatever is going on from the eyebrows up, and keep me feeling pulled together. Allia’s hair was a hit, here and abroad. She had no less than eleven shout outs on the streets – from admiring hair fans. One man in Manhattan, who looked rather tough, completely stopped in his tracks, put one hand flamboyantly onto his hip and declared ‘girl. I love your hair. mmmm hmmmmm. God bless,’ then he melted away into the cold day, leaving us grinning. 

High flyer airport cocktails and a journal ready for filling.

Easy, cheap jewellery (no fuss if it gets lost or damage), but again, it got some love on our trip. No one would ever know it was a $11 sale item from The Bay. 
After we landed, we cabbed it to the Hilton Garden Inn, near Times Square, and walked off our airplane lungs and legs in a late night stroll around the square. People say that New Yorkers are harsh and chilly. Not so. We always have such pleasant interactions. I chose my mom’s vintage coat (she wore it during her pregnancy with me, 33 years ago) for the trip. I sewed a fur collar onto it years ago, which helps make it perfect for cutting wintery wind. The belted waist also adds some shape.
  
  I think of all the Law and Order I have watched whenever I see the NYPD.

  The divide between yellow cabs and Uber is ever-present. We split our time between the two.
Obviously, the Delorean is waiting, gull-wings up, for photo ops. What first night in the city would be complete without a slice of pizza. Just off Times Square, we are big fans of the cheap and delicious pizza from Bella Vita. It was flavourful and an amazing bedtime snack.

Tomorrow’s promise: celebs, shopping, great food and some romance, too.

Honeymoon Part 2: St. Martin

Love

After a whirlwind tour of New York City, we hopped on a plane and headed to the island of St. Martin. Ready to dip our toes in the water, eat lots of seafood and relax, island style, we checked-in to the Grand Case Beach Resort. We opted for a condo-style resort so we could have our own kitchen and shop at the market, while also enjoying the option of our hotel’s breakfast and restaurant. After all, Grand Case has a strip of restaurants that is well known for its incredible French cuisine and Caribbean and Creole fusion.

Island adventures in eating, sight seeing and relaxing!

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We indulged in everything friends and family could recommend, which included a trip to Loterie Farm. By day it’s a park with a private swimming area and hangout, with zip-lining and rain forest tours overhead… by night it’s a posh club or romantic place to tuck away in a private cabana.

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Imagine this place by night, lit moodily with twinkling light – the sound of waterfalls blending with the calls of the creatures in the forest and bats swooping silently overhead. We were invited to tour this place all by ourselves when all was quiet.

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That evening we ate in the tree top lounge. The food was lovely and you could see the bats sweeping by outside.

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Relaxing high in the trees.

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Exploring the islands nearby; we took a catamaran trip to Anguilla, on rolling waves and jumped into the clear blue waters to snorkel with sea turtles and cavort on the beach.

Gorgeous sea life was so close you could touch it. I loved swimming over the grazing sea turtles, watching them gracefully dip and bob through the water.

Gorgeous sea life was so close you could touch it. I loved swimming over the grazing sea turtles, watching them gracefully dip and bob through the water.

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For two days we rented a car to explore more of the small island. Totally do-able. You can drive the entire island in an hour. We stopped at romantic lookouts, quiet cafes and drank coffees in the morning, mimosas at lunch and in the evening we walked or took taxis to enjoy the nightlife, while ensuring our safe return to the hotel.

Grand Case is brimming with great places to eat and drink, we particularly liked the Zen'it Beach-Grand Case beer garden and cafe. The owners were friendly and it was a super place to relax in the afternoon and into evening.

Grand Case is brimming with great places to eat and drink; it’s known for its restaurant mile.

We particularly liked the Zen'it Beach-Grand Case beer garden and cafe. The owners were friendly and it was a super place to relax in the afternoon and into evening. It was very quirky and laid back.

We particularly liked the Zen’it Beach-Grand Case beer garden and cafe. The owners were friendly and it was a super place to relax in the afternoon and into evening. It was very quirky and laid back.

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Sharing drinks with new friends. We were surprised to see quite a few other LGBTQ couples. These New Yorkers were travelling together and they are now newlyweds themselves!

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On our journey we were on the lookout for some good local ‘fast food’. Allia had fish escovitch and I had jerk. Of course.

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Playing with her food.

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Out on the catamaran.

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Evening cocktails with mint and fresh tropical fruits.

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My beautiful new wife, looking out from Sunset Cafe.

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Lobster bibbed and ready to go.

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Lolo’s served authentic, piled-high food at very reasonable prices, with all the carb combinations you can imagine: spaghetti, rice, potatoes … all as the sides to your meats… with salad and veggies. This was the place to go if you were hungry and felt like sharing flavourful, simple food.

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Lolo’s and Chez Coco are almost indistinguishable from one another, save for the aisle that runs between their outdoor tables. These beachfront open air restaurants were one of our favourite finds. All the dishes were served heaping and hot. Total comfort food.

Bbq and smoke at Lolo's in Grand Case. They would call out and chat you up like an old friend as you walked by. How can you not stop in for a bite?

Bbq and smoke at Lolo’s in Grand Case. They would call out and chat you up like an old friend as you walked by. How can you not stop in for a bite?

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Jerk chicken and rice.

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I think 3 Euros for two mangoes is a hefty price. But Allia was charmed by the kerchief’d old lady selling them roadside. And they were the BEST mango I’d ever tasted.

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Wrecks in the harbour.

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Street graffiti pays tribute to the islands French culture. The island is divided between France and the Netherlands.

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Zip lining through the canopy.

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At Maho Beach, despite the warnings that ‘death may result’… people wait to stand beneath the flight path of incoming and departing planes. We watched from a safe distance, Heinekens in hand.

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Beautiful beaches on the island of Anguilla.

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Snorkeling right off the rocks at our hotel.

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During low season, we had this relaxing beach cafe all to ourselves in the early morning.

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Calmos was a wonderful place to enjoy live music and feet-in-the-sand salsa dancing at night.

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Our friendly, neighbourhood iguana.

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Grand Case Beach Club’s waterfront.

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Accommodations. Simple and clean. Air conditioning is a must. The weather was breezy but tropical.

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Passing ships at the Grand Case Beach Club.

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What we happily referred to as “Our Beach.”

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Striking a pose between the sports and water desk, and the cafe at our hotel.

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Love. Love. Love.

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Lazy afternoons… with cocktails.

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Strolling the board walk.

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Curried shrimp and rice. Making plans for the rest of the day, while eating = our favourite pass time.

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Chicken and shrimp and fish… oh my.

Bye bye, Grand Case Beach Club.

Bye bye, Grand Case Beach Club.

Aurevoir, St. Martin. We will miss you. Thanks for the memories and the most relaxing end to our honeymoon!

It’s Up To You, New York: Honeymoon Part 1

Love

One year ago, we went on our honeymoon. A queer-friendly destination was high on our priority list. We started off in NYC and flew from there to the island of St. Martin (stay tuned for Honeymoon Part 2)… and did we ever have a blast! It was the perfect combo of sweet city heat and sight seeing, paired with relaxed island vibes and natural beauty.

I’m going to list everything as an imperative, but consider it as more of a suggestion. If you have half as much fun as we did, you’ll love New York, too. And yes, in a gay way. Air kisses.

Alison and Allia

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Get a great hotel and then spend as little time in it as possible. We stayed at the Wyndham Garden, centrally located in the heart of  Manhattan’s Chelsea district. The rooms were small, but very clean and quiet. We were right in the middle of things and the staff was just too sweet to describe. 

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Hit the streets on foot and fall in love with the strange and wonderful things you find as you take it all in.

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Diverge from the beaten path and ignore people when they say it’s too far to walk. We tried to avoid taking transit. You miss so much of the city when you head underground. Unless you have a clock to punch, put on those walking shoes (plus, then you feel no guilt whatsoever about enjoying all the local treats you can stomach!)

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Take recommendations. Our friend told us to check out Co. and we were not disappointed. We found awesome local brew and some of the yummiest food of our entire trip. The marinated warm olives had us making nom-nom food noises.

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Laugh. We were tuned-in to the humour of the city and the days were made lighter by all of those laugh out loud moments. Gotta love a meatball-specialty shop that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

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Eat as many treats and local delicacies as you can find!

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Go to at least one fancy place. We went to the Standard Hotel where beverages were $20 US each. Gimlet, anyone? Moscow Mule? Go somewhere where you’ll feel like you’ve pulled the wool over someone’s eyes just by being allowed in. I was definitely under dressed, and felt a bit like a the Anne Hathaway who arrives amidst the fashionistas on day one in The Devil Wears Prada, but got away with an ‘I don’t even give a care’ rock star incognito look. 

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The Standard felt like the set of a James Bond film, from the stealthy elevator ride up a bazillion stories, to the gilded interior, and the staff are off-duty glamazon models in tiny little whisper-of-nothing dresses; they don’t seat you at tables, they catwalk you there. And the male staff are dressed like the bellhops in the Grand Budapest Hotel. Check out the very racy bathrooms with floor to ceiling windows (in the stalls) and the breath-taking views of the city.

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See live music. We went, on the recommendation of a friend. (Thanks, Annie!) to see the performance art piece, Sleep No More, at the McKittrick Hotel; the evening started and ended with cabaret-style live acts and this bombshell songstress who later morphed into a rockabilly crooner. Hello, Jessica Rabbit. http://www.sleepnomore.com/#share

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Go see Sleep No More. It bears repeating. Trust me. Just do it. It’s creepy, intriguing, intimate and an immersive experience. You start by putting on a mask, then the fun begins as you’re ushered into a maze of performance and choose your own adventure style artscape. Very voyeuristic, sometimes sexy, sometimes deeply uncomfortable. I got licked… and I kinda liked it. 

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Be ready to appreciate the surprises, small and large. We arrived home to our room to find a card signed by the hotel staff and some treats; when they realized it was our honeymoon, they wanted us to feel the love.

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Don’t sleep all day. We went to the Chelsea Market almost daily to try different foods and to wander. We ate at Giovanni Rana and were seriously spoiled by the staff. On that particular day it seemed that everyone wanted to give us free stuff. We graciously accepted. Chelsea Market website: http://chelseamarket.com/

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Drink Champagne. Cheers often.

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Don’t get too caught up with a plan. be open to seeing where the day takes you. Follow your whims and enjoy the ‘not knowing’ where you might wind up next.

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Take photos to remember the experience, but don’t spend all your time behind a camera lens. Also, pack clothes that will make you feel amazing – in physically and mentally. Comfort is key, but so is feeling great once you get out there. It’s my firm belief that your cute clothes (like fine china) should not be ‘saved’ for later. 

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Put yourself in the scene. Stop and ponder. Do what the locals do, but don’t be afraid to be silly. Allia needed a break, and just happened to look adorable sitting there. We took this photo on the Highline (one of our favourite places). There is so much to see and do and the concept of the Highline itself, of reclaiming urban space, is awesome. Check out the website: http://www.thehighline.org/

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Get a map and pick a direction. See what happens on the way.

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We found a soap and beauty product shop that gave us free treatments and hand massages just for stopping in. Say yes to those fun indulgences and don’t be afraid to leave when you’re ready to move on.

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Visit an art gallery or museum. The New School had an exhibit that was free to the public: a politically charged collection that commented on history and current events, while examining censorship.

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Take a break if your feet are sore or someone gets hangry. (not naming names, here).

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Have a cocktail. Try something new. Muddled blackberry somethin’ somethin’. Enjoy happy hour. 

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Meet up with friends who are in town! We went to a Dessert Club, Chika Licious, where we had several courses of dessert paired with wines. We were met by old friends from New York, and a Toronto ex-pat.

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Indulge. Coconut marshmallows. Lavender shortbreads. Chocolate ganache with hazelnut and sea salt.

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Do something spontaneous. Just say, okay. Or in my case, say ‘stop the car!!’. We were driving around Alphabet City when I noticed a human sized bird’s nest in a tree, a whimsical tree fort, in the middle of a park. We made a pit stop, obviously.

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Soak up some culture. We went to the famed Newyorican Poets Cafe for an open mic poetry slam. It was incredible. I am hard to impress when it comes to live performance, but I was mind-blown by the talent and energy we saw that night. This is a not-to-be-missed experience. http://www.nuyorican.org/

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Eat pizza while you wait in line. Share some and swap stories with the people you just met.

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Get into it. Really, you’re on vacation, so have a good time. Let go of your preconceptions and be in the moment. I didn’t know what to expect and the slam poets had such range that at times I was laughing til I got the hiccups, at others I sucked in my breath in shock, while some moments left my eyes brimming with tears.

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Eat at a diner.

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Take a selfie, and wear some punchy lipstick 😉

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Rent a bike and ride around Central Park.

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Eat at places that are suggested by friends, or sound intriguing. Bar Bacon sounded like it would be right up our alley… Beer and Bacon pairings!?! But the service sucked. Like REALLY sucked. Don’t get discouraged. It can still be fun, even if you hit a bit of a snag, or a diva server.

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Try, try again. Not on our recommended list, we ended up walking by this Mexican place with a great crowd and followed our bomb of a bacon tasting appetizer experience with a truly memorable Mexican main course at El Centro (http://www.elcentro-nyc.com/). We loved it. The food was plentiful, the vibe was fun and we spotted an Orange Is The New Black cast member just a few tables away.

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Go to the places everyone raves about. We went to Amy’s Bread because my brother said it was delish. We had olive oil ice cream, dark chocolate gelato and a slice of olive oil cake with lemon. Please … do this if you have the chance! And chat with the wonderfully friendly staff.

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Make friends with a local. Turn an ‘uh-oh’ moment into a good one when Allia’s backpack strap broke and we were forced to track down a leather repair shop. We ended up meeting this new friend.

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What a charmer.

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Don’t let minor set-backs ruin your day. Retrospectively, this little detour wasn’t a big deal. See, Allia, I can admit it.

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Do the big touristy things. Voila, Brooklyn Bridge. But maybe, pick an overcast day to walk the sucker.

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Share meals. If you want to eat often, avoid feeling stuffed, and to try lots of different places – eat your way around the city and share, share, share. Splitting meals, like the one we enjoyed at Bevacco (http://bevacco.com/), was a great way to keep up our energy and let us sample the variety on offer in one of the foodiest cities in the world. We loved the decor of Bevacco and their Italian fare was pretty scrumptious.

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Get one really special thing that you wouldn’t normally indulge in. This is the one that got away. This Vince Camuto statement piece has been on my mind ever since I restrained myself and didn’t buy it. Get yourself a souvenir that you’ll really love – each time you see it you’ll remember where you first met.

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Enjoy a home cooked meal. Friends invited us out  to Jersey for the evening. We were spoiled with Oysters Rockafeller and a spread of mouth-watering food, then we played after-dinner games and caught up with old friends.

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Find a hole in the wall. We went to Cubby- Hole – a little dive bar in the LGBTQ scene. It was pretty memorable in a campy way.

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Do something that is personal. For me, as a grad of the Sexual Diversity Studies program at U of Toronto, seeing the Stonewall Inn was a must on my NYC list. This is where it all started. The people who fought for our rights back in 1969 are the reason we can even be on this honeymoon. Thank you.

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Get emotional. I did. Whatever your heart’s issue is, when you get there you’ll feel it. We spent our last night in New York watching drag queens and appreciating our history.

We did love New York. The city was the perfect start to a two part honeymoon. Stay tuned for the next leg of our journey – shifting to island time on beautiful St. Martin.