Honeymoon Part 2: St. Martin

Love

After a whirlwind tour of New York City, we hopped on a plane and headed to the island of St. Martin. Ready to dip our toes in the water, eat lots of seafood and relax, island style, we checked-in to the Grand Case Beach Resort. We opted for a condo-style resort so we could have our own kitchen and shop at the market, while also enjoying the option of our hotel’s breakfast and restaurant. After all, Grand Case has a strip of restaurants that is well known for its incredible French cuisine and Caribbean and Creole fusion.

Island adventures in eating, sight seeing and relaxing!

We indulged in everything friends and family could recommend, which included a trip to Loterie Farm. By day it’s a park with a private swimming area and hangout, with zip-lining and rain forest tours overhead… by night it’s a posh club or romantic place to tuck away in a private cabana.

Imagine this place by night, lit moodily with twinkling light – the sound of waterfalls blending with the calls of the creatures in the forest and bats swooping silently overhead. We were invited to tour this place all by ourselves when all was quiet.

That evening we ate in the tree top lounge. The food was lovely and you could see the bats sweeping by outside.

10178061_10154607847430188_7965044232944681120_n

Relaxing high in the trees.

10410933_10154607848180188_49456567091922425_n

Exploring the islands nearby; we took a catamaran trip to Anguilla, on rolling waves and jumped into the clear blue waters to snorkel with sea turtles and cavort on the beach.

Gorgeous sea life was so close you could touch it. I loved swimming over the grazing sea turtles, watching them gracefully dip and bob through the water.

10610509_10154607847825188_4768143006469928782_n

For two days we rented a car to explore more of the small island. Totally do-able. You can drive the entire island in an hour. We stopped at romantic lookouts, quiet cafes and drank coffees in the morning, mimosas at lunch and in the evening we walked or took taxis to enjoy the nightlife, while ensuring our safe return to the hotel.

Grand Case is brimming with great places to eat and drink, we particularly liked the Zen'it Beach-Grand Case beer garden and cafe. The owners were friendly and it was a super place to relax in the afternoon and into evening.

Grand Case is brimming with great places to eat and drink; it’s known for its restaurant mile.

We particularly liked the Zen’it Beach-Grand Case beer garden and cafe. The owners were friendly and it was a super place to relax in the afternoon and into evening. It was very quirky and laid back.

10612908_10154607843160188_8482345323144195281_n

Sharing drinks with new friends. We were surprised to see quite a few other LGBTQ couples. These New Yorkers were travelling together and they are now newlyweds themselves!

10616141_10154607848405188_3599840168458623896_n

On our journey we were on the lookout for some good local ‘fast food’. Allia had fish escovitch and I had jerk. Of course.

10665696_10154607848550188_8287245519038881449_n

Playing with her food.

10616567_10154607850870188_1649561285585514456_n

Out on the catamaran.

10620828_10154607847390188_1241900417257327924_n

Evening cocktails with mint and fresh tropical fruits.

10649613_10154607841470188_6354763433547419999_n

My beautiful new wife, looking out from Sunset Cafe.

10635840_10154607849210188_3327351479109108735_n

Lobster bibbed and ready to go.

Lolo’s served authentic, piled-high food at very reasonable prices, with all the carb combinations you can imagine: spaghetti, rice, potatoes … all as the sides to your meats… with salad and veggies. This was the place to go if you were hungry and felt like sharing flavourful, simple food.

Lolo’s and Chez Coco are almost indistinguishable from one another, save for the aisle that runs between their outdoor tables. These beachfront open air restaurants were one of our favourite finds. All the dishes were served heaping and hot. Total comfort food.

Bbq and smoke at Lolo’s in Grand Case. They would call out and chat you up like an old friend as you walked by. How can you not stop in for a bite?

Jerk chicken and rice.

156072_10154607848815188_6698295511997141702_n

I think 3 Euros for two mangoes is a hefty price. But Allia was charmed by the kerchief’d old lady selling them roadside. And they were the BEST mango I’d ever tasted.

10647179_10154607847545188_3481365355505451568_n

Wrecks in the harbour.

10653822_10154607843660188_6188218477426210915_n

Street graffiti pays tribute to the islands French culture. The island is divided between France and the Netherlands.

10653822_10154607847155188_6431546450482916211_n

Zip lining through the canopy.

10665684_10154607848350188_6084245430499890381_n

At Maho Beach, despite the warnings that ‘death may result’… people wait to stand beneath the flight path of incoming and departing planes. We watched from a safe distance, Heinekens in hand.

10665226_10154607850580188_3647805019306098475_n

Beautiful beaches on the island of Anguilla.

10703581_10154607842720188_5383445400885798365_n

Snorkeling right off the rocks at our hotel.

10703588_10154607847870188_6657214217012605329_n

During low season, we had this relaxing beach cafe all to ourselves in the early morning.

Calmos was a wonderful place to enjoy live music and feet-in-the-sand salsa dancing at night.

Our friendly, neighbourhood iguana.

Grand Case Beach Club’s waterfront.

Accommodations. Simple and clean. Air conditioning is a must. The weather was breezy but tropical.

Passing ships at the Grand Case Beach Club.

What we happily referred to as “Our Beach.”

Striking a pose between the sports and water desk, and the cafe at our hotel.

Love. Love. Love.

Lazy afternoons… with cocktails.

Strolling the board walk.

Curried shrimp and rice. Making plans for the rest of the day, while eating = our favourite pass time.

Chicken and shrimp and fish… oh my.

Bye bye, Grand Case Beach Club.

Aurevoir, St. Martin. We will miss you. Thanks for the memories and the most relaxing end to our honeymoon!

It’s Up To You, New York: Honeymoon Part 1

Love

One year ago, we went on our honeymoon. A queer-friendly destination was high on our priority list. We started off in NYC and flew from there to the island of St. Martin (stay tuned for Honeymoon Part 2)… and did we ever have a blast! It was the perfect combo of sweet city heat and sight seeing, paired with relaxed island vibes and natural beauty.

I’m going to list everything as an imperative, but consider it as more of a suggestion. If you have half as much fun as we did, you’ll love New York, too. And yes, in a gay way. Air kisses.

Alison and Allia

Get a great hotel and then spend as little time in it as possible. We stayed at the Wyndham Garden, centrally located in the heart of Manhattan’s Chelsea district. The rooms were small, but very clean and quiet. We were right in the middle of things and the staff was just too sweet to describe.

Hit the streets on foot and fall in love with the strange and wonderful things you find as you take it all in.

Diverge from the beaten path and ignore people when they say it’s too far to walk. We tried to avoid taking transit. You miss so much of the city when you head underground. Unless you have a clock to punch, put on those walking shoes (plus, then you feel no guilt whatsoever about enjoying all the local treats you can stomach!)

Take recommendations. Our friend told us to check out Co. and we were not disappointed. We found awesome local brew and some of the yummiest food of our entire trip. The marinated warm olives had us making nom-nom food noises.

Laugh. We were tuned-in to the humour of the city and the days were made lighter by all of those laugh out loud moments. Gotta love a meatball-specialty shop that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Eat as many treats and local delicacies as you can find!

Go to at least one fancy place. We went to the Standard Hotel where beverages were $20 US each. Gimlet, anyone? Moscow Mule? Go somewhere where you’ll feel like you’ve pulled the wool over someone’s eyes just by being allowed in. I was definitely under dressed, and felt a bit like a the Anne Hathaway who arrives amidst the fashionistas on day one in The Devil Wears Prada, but got away with an ‘I don’t even give a care’ rock star incognito look.

The Standard felt like the set of a James Bond film, from the stealthy elevator ride up a bazillion stories, to the gilded interior, and the staff are off-duty glamazon models in tiny little whisper-of-nothing dresses; they don’t seat you at tables, they catwalk you there. And the male staff are dressed like the bellhops in the Grand Budapest Hotel. Check out the very racy bathrooms with floor to ceiling windows (in the stalls) and the breath-taking views of the city.

See live music. We went, on the recommendation of a friend. (Thanks, Annie!) to see the performance art piece, Sleep No More, at the McKittrick Hotel; the evening started and ended with cabaret-style live acts and this bombshell songstress who later morphed into a rockabilly crooner. Hello, Jessica Rabbit. http://www.sleepnomore.com/#share

Go see Sleep No More. It bears repeating. Trust me. Just do it. It’s creepy, intriguing, intimate and an immersive experience. You start by putting on a mask, then the fun begins as you’re ushered into a maze of performance and choose your own adventure style artscape. Very voyeuristic, sometimes sexy, sometimes deeply uncomfortable. I got licked… and I kinda liked it.

Be ready to appreciate the surprises, small and large. We arrived home to our room to find a card signed by the hotel staff and some treats; when they realized it was our honeymoon, they wanted us to feel the love.

Don’t sleep all day. We went to the Chelsea Market almost daily to try different foods and to wander. We ate at Giovanni Rana and were seriously spoiled by the staff. On that particular day it seemed that everyone wanted to give us free stuff. We graciously accepted. Chelsea Market website: http://chelseamarket.com/

Drink Champagne. Cheers often.

Don’t get too caught up with a plan. be open to seeing where the day takes you. Follow your whims and enjoy the ‘not knowing’ where you might wind up next.

Take photos to remember the experience, but don’t spend all your time behind a camera lens. Also, pack clothes that will make you feel amazing – in physically and mentally. Comfort is key, but so is feeling great once you get out there. It’s my firm belief that your cute clothes (like fine china) should not be ‘saved’ for later.

Put yourself in the scene. Stop and ponder. Do what the locals do, but don’t be afraid to be silly. Allia needed a break, and just happened to look adorable sitting there. We took this photo on the Highline (one of our favourite places). There is so much to see and do and the concept of the Highline itself, of reclaiming urban space, is awesome. Check out the website: http://www.thehighline.org/

Get a map and pick a direction. See what happens on the way.

We found a soap and beauty product shop that gave us free treatments and hand massages just for stopping in. Say yes to those fun indulgences and don’t be afraid to leave when you’re ready to move on.

Visit an art gallery or museum. The New School had an exhibit that was free to the public: a politically charged collection that commented on history and current events, while examining censorship.

Take a break if your feet are sore or someone gets hangry. (not naming names, here).

Have a cocktail. Try something new. Muddled blackberry somethin’ somethin’. Enjoy happy hour.

Meet up with friends who are in town! We went to a Dessert Club, Chika Licious, where we had several courses of dessert paired with wines. We were met by old friends from New York, and a Toronto ex-pat.

Indulge. Coconut marshmallows. Lavender shortbreads. Chocolate ganache with hazelnut and sea salt.

Do something spontaneous. Just say, okay. Or in my case, say ‘stop the car!!’. We were driving around Alphabet City when I noticed a human sized bird’s nest in a tree, a whimsical tree fort, in the middle of a park. We made a pit stop, obviously.

Soak up some culture. We went to the famed Newyorican Poets Cafe for an open mic poetry slam. It was incredible. I am hard to impress when it comes to live performance, but I was mind-blown by the talent and energy we saw that night. This is a not-to-be-missed experience. http://www.nuyorican.org/

Eat pizza while you wait in line. Share some and swap stories with the people you just met.

Get into it. Really, you’re on vacation, so have a good time. Let go of your preconceptions and be in the moment. I didn’t know what to expect and the slam poets had such range that at times I was laughing til I got the hiccups, at others I sucked in my breath in shock, while some moments left my eyes brimming with tears.

Eat at a diner.

Take a selfie, and wear some punchy lipstick 😉

Rent a bike and ride around Central Park.

Eat at places that are suggested by friends, or sound intriguing. Bar Bacon sounded like it would be right up our alley… Beer and Bacon pairings!?! But the service sucked. Like REALLY sucked. Don’t get discouraged. It can still be fun, even if you hit a bit of a snag, or a diva server.

Try, try again. Not on our recommended list, we ended up walking by this Mexican place with a great crowd and followed our bomb of a bacon tasting appetizer experience with a truly memorable Mexican main course at El Centro (http://www.elcentro-nyc.com/). We loved it. The food was plentiful, the vibe was fun and we spotted an Orange Is The New Black cast member just a few tables away.

Go to the places everyone raves about. We went to Amy’s Bread because my brother said it was delish. We had olive oil ice cream, dark chocolate gelato and a slice of olive oil cake with lemon. Please … do this if you have the chance! And chat with the wonderfully friendly staff.

Make friends with a local. Turn an ‘uh-oh’ moment into a good one when Allia’s backpack strap broke and we were forced to track down a leather repair shop. We ended up meeting this new friend.

What a charmer.

Don’t let minor set-backs ruin your day. Retrospectively, this little detour wasn’t a big deal. See, Allia, I can admit it.

Do the big touristy things. Voila, Brooklyn Bridge. But maybe, pick an overcast day to walk the sucker.

Share meals. If you want to eat often, avoid feeling stuffed, and to try lots of different places – eat your way around the city and share, share, share. Splitting meals, like the one we enjoyed at Bevacco (http://bevacco.com/), was a great way to keep up our energy and let us sample the variety on offer in one of the foodiest cities in the world. We loved the decor of Bevacco and their Italian fare was pretty scrumptious.

Bevacco (http://bevacco.com/).

Get one really special thing that you wouldn’t normally indulge in. This is the one that got away. This Vince Camuto statement piece has been on my mind ever since I restrained myself and didn’t buy it. Get yourself a souvenir that you’ll really love – each time you see it you’ll remember where you first met.

Enjoy a home cooked meal. Friends invited us out to Jersey for the evening. We were spoiled with Oysters Rockafeller and a spread of mouth-watering food, then we played after-dinner games and caught up with old friends.

Find a hole in the wall. We went to Cubby- Hole – a little dive bar in the LGBTQ scene. It was pretty memorable in a campy way.

Do something that is personal. For me, as a grad of the Sexual Diversity Studies program at U of Toronto, seeing the Stonewall Inn was a must on my NYC list. This is where it all started. The people who fought for our rights back in 1969 are the reason we can even be on this honeymoon. Thank you.

Get emotional. I did. Whatever your heart’s issue is, when you get there you’ll feel it. We spent our last night in New York watching drag queens and appreciating our history.

We did love New York. The city was the perfect start to a two part honeymoon. Stay tuned for the next leg of our journey – shifting to island time on beautiful St. Martin.

Puppy Love

Love

Ever cried on an ATV? It’s a long story, that only really lasts four days.

It started one night in Santorini, at the bar of the El Greco Hotel, where we were celebrating and saying goodbyes following our friends Lindsay and Rob’s wedding. Amidst the caipirinhas and wine, in wanders the most adorable stray puppy.

She wound her way through the legs under the table and found her way straight to my lap. She was a gorgeous strawberry blonde, with the ears of a spaniel and eyes to melt your heart. She was friendly, but shaking. Clearly hungry. We pitched in to get her some food and she cuddled with us. On our friend Jas’ lap, I joked as I took their picture “family photo.”

It had entered my mind that this puppy could not live her life as a stray. I’d seen how fast people drive on the island. Her side also concerned me. It was puffy and if pressed gently, there seemed to be movement below the surface. I was afraid she was full of worms.

That evening she followed us to our room. I closed the door and re-opened it to find her sitting there, staring up at me, big-eyed and adorable, breaking my heart. I got her fresh water and walked her to the company of some late-nighters from England. I hardly slept.

Mostly I worried she would be hungry, or sick, with that mysterious side bulge. Fortunately, I thought, she’d found her way to the winding, protected maze of El Greco’s villas, where no cars were near and there was an endless supply of tourists with a soft spot for cute, and buffet breakfasts to share.

11247896_574119809397142_1082258576954488128_n

Our little pal, Santo, aka Gaia.

Next morning she was at the breakfast spot, happily sharing sausages and deli meats from guests’ plates. She sat with us by the pool and while cuddling, I resolved that not knowing what would happen to her would slowly weigh on me until I found more answers.

The front desk didn’t recognize her, but put me in touch with Helga, a worker from Santorini’s SAWA http://www.sawasantorini.org/. Allia, my wife, also looked into animal rescue in Greece and quickly received a reply from PAWS Pelion (near Athens); they advised to get her to a vet quickly and try to start the process. We also got the contact for SAWA (Santorini Animal Welfare Association) christina@sawasantorini.org

Helga met us at the hotel and fostered her, helping us get her to the vet. Within the day she had her rabies vaccine, de-worming, tick/flea medicine and we had her microchipped. The side, it turns out, had two teeth punctures that had let air below the skin’s surface and the vet, Margherita, shaved and disinfected the spots, assuring us that the air would drain on its own. Very relieved. She was such a trooper and we got her a passport, named her Gaia (pronounced GAY-a, ironically, in Greek). We were so close.

All that remained was to get her paperwork of permission from the government, allowing her to leave, and we had two days before our departure. Our travel agent also had to see if it was possible/allowed to get her on our flights. This proved more difficult, as it was Canada Day (on a Thursday) and there was no one in the office.

I tossed and turned again. Waiting was killing me. But the amount of support we had was incredible. I was so worried that somewhere along the line we would run into trouble and be unable to get her home with us. I posted:

“We are loving Santorini and we fell in love with a gorgeous little stray puppy! We have her shots, passport and are waiting on the okay paperwork from the Greek Government. Only once we are on the plane to Canada will I be relaxed. The last hurdle will be the small flight from Santorini to Athens, then onto the second plane. If anyone knows a dog lover in Athens who can step in on short noticed if we get stopped, please let us know. We are returning on Friday.”

Replies:

-Amazing!!! That’s the best story ever! You work fast too, you already found a vet and did all the paperwork in the last day?? Crazy!!

-Sending good puppy vibes! All will be well!

-There’s a lady in Toronto who operates Tails From Greece Rescue – her email address is diannealdan@sympatico.ca – I’ve seen her postings before on petfinder but she doesn’t have an actual website (but is a registered charity). She might be able to help you.

There were dozens of replies, offering help and support, six different people from the wedding offered to pitch in to help cover the costs if we could get Gaia home, and even the hotel staff was on board. Teodora from the front desk said she would foster her for the months it might take to get the paperwork and sort out a flight, the bartender Vasilis said he’d give us 50 Euros towards her travel. Everyone, it seemed, was invested in helping this little girl get adopted. She had won everyone over.

The story took a sad turn, as we found that the paperwork needed to come from Naxos and we’d need to go to the harbour to pick it up in Fira. We thought, due to the language barrier, that we were meeting a person at a desk or office down at the harbour. We did not understand that we were meeting a letter, held on the boat, that would not be left IN Fira unless in our own hands. We narrowly missed the Blue Star Delos as it left the dock, after a twisting and turning ATV ride down the side of the caldera to the port. The port police officers, a group of macho, chain-smoking uniformed men, seemed genuinely moved as my eyes brimmed with tears and they registered how sad this moment was, after radioing the vessel to confirm that the letter was on board… heading back to Naxos. We were departing the next morning and still didn’t have a confirmation about flights for Gaia, with our time difference and the question of her documents, age and timeline of the vaccines. It seemed like a sign, but there was also some VERY good news.

Although I cried, full-on tears, as we drove back up the side of the cliff, Elena and Teodora had given us some hope – the owner of the El Greco was an animal lover and agreed to take Gaia, to adopt her if we couldn’t, having heard of all our efforts to do so.

Post: “We just found out our last document from the Greek government, authorizing the transport of the puppy fell through. We tried SO hard. With the language, time difference, Canada Day, short time period and tons of contradictory info between two airlines, it’s amazing we got so close. I am so sad, because we were really invested in this little sweetheart. BUT overall I ‘m really proud of us for trying and I think the way everyone here (and online) got behind us is a sign that there are a lot of big hearts out there. So big, in fact, that the owner of the El Greco (our hotel) heard about this little gal and has agreed to adopt her. So, our goal is complete; she won’t be with us, but she WILL be healthy, happy, safe and loved. Thanks to my wife, Allia, for jumping in with me, all in, and consoling me when it didn’t work out. The staff and friends here for Lindsay’s wedding have been amaaaazing. Hugs.”

We went to say our goodbyes to her that night, visiting her at Helga’s work, where she greeted us with tail wags and face licks. She was going to have an amazing life. With a final hug and, yes, more tears, we went off to enjoy our last night in Santorini. She was going to be a very happy girl.

We left her passport and vet records, plus a note, at the hotel and quickly received word that the owner had come to get her, and would email us with updates. Update number one, from the owner Maria, was that her brother had fallen in love with Gaia and taken her home. We also received one final assurance that we could contact her to get updates. What better end to the story could anyone hope for?

If you, like us, fall in love on vacation, get the process started early. Contact a local vet and get in touch with the animal welfare/rescue agency in the area. Also, contact your airlines immediately to arrange for travel on board your flights, checking age, weight and carrier size restrictions, as well as the necessary documents for the country you are travelling from, and your destination country. One final must: tell your country’s customs agents that YOU are adopting/own the puppy as your pet, not that it is being brought in FOR adoption, as this may be seen as a commercial transaction. Good luck!

This whole experience reaffirms that it is so much better to care and be invested, even if it’s sometimes sad, than to watch, hoping someone else will step in. Sometimes it feels really good to cry.